Tres Pueblas en Tres Dias

The coolest thing I did on Sat was buy an XLR cable for my mic.  I got directions from Kiko at the Escuelab, and they took my through downtown Miraflores, a big city part of Lima where the multicolored poncho natives mingle with business suits.  Did I mention the traffic in Lima?  It's aggressive.  I got to a little electronics store front and asked the guy about mic cables and he hands my two ends of an XLR and about four feet of cable in a plastic bag.  I'm like "Que?  Yo Hago?"  and he's like "Claro" which comes up about every five sentences here.  So he puts the cable together in front of me - a real clean job, I learned a lot about soldering watching it done - and when I get home it works fine.  That ruled.

We gathered for our trip to Juarez at 9pm and taxied to the  bus station where a double-decker shuttle craft of a bus awaited us with cheap food and a cheesy "in-flight" movie to boot.  We dozed for the ride and pulled into Juarez around 6am on Sun, dumped our baggage at the hostel, and my fellows naped in a nearby hotel while the hostel preped our rooms and I took a ramble.  These poncho ladies have guinea pigs for sale, live ones, about 30 per sac, and the poor things are squirming over and around one another while the ladies are grinning yellow in the clean mountain air.
















After breakfast - I can't recall what - we check out the town square just in time to catch the high school parade.  Horn band in front and uniformed grade schoolers marching in tow, under the perusal of the town and the guidance of nuns and suits.  Some local politicains made speeches to which no one - thankfully - paid much mind.  There's a majestic old church under reconstruction at one end of the square.  Later that day after a nap I returned to find the kids have filled the streets with flowers and sand in the images of doves and words of God and peace, and there's a Catholic service going on under the geometric stained glass of a modern church which neighbors the more majestic site.  Peruvians make Hallelujah their own.






















































Monday is another day of traveling but not like before.  The landscape is beyond me.  These mountains are giants, some snowcapped, some cracked by timeless water flow now replaced by lush groves.  And as we near a town the land is loosely squared for the cultivation of barely and wheat and corn, and the towns never last more than a couple of miles and they're all crumbling but it doesn't make the people look poor, just a part of the world that contains them.  There's an old philosophical word, sublime, which refers to the suggestion of everything outside ones perception, that being the bulk of creation, and the word has become passe but I find the referent thriving.  










































Huari is my home for the next few weeks, along with my fellows Beka, Mark, and Tiffany.  We got trucked off in pairs this morning for what will become our daily routine.  So you wake up before the sun and stuff yourself in a sedan with some day workers and kids and go tumbling down one mountain, follow a river across the valley, and shoot up another mountain, at a pace surpassing your previous understanding of security, though barely noticed by the cattle whom share the morning commute, and this is the most normal thing in the world you stupid American.  I spent the rest of the day playing computer games with 5th graders and their patient teacher.  We sang and misunderstood a lot.  They love me.  Can't wait to see them tomorrow.  My fellows had less fun, caught between Ministry paranoia from teachers and lawlessness from the kids.  I hope my day is not a diamond in the rough.  I think its the best idea to introduce yourself with a song.  Works for me.      


       
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Dias Bastante Lleno

The days continue to be long, brimming with meetings and introductions and long commutes, but we are all learning a lot about the situation we're in.  Early on Thursday, while we were enjoying our beloved coffee break, a small demonstration of government employees marched to the gates of the Ministry shouting for higher wages or shorter hours or something.  Mi ignorancia del idioma me mantiene en la oscuridad.  We concluded our day's training with a detailed lecture on the makeup and import of the four or five weekly data collection forms that will be our burden, apparently.  No one was happy about it, being drafted as Ministry spies.  The role may substantially corrode the trust of the teachers on which our educational work depends.  They will already view us as outsiders.

Thursday evening pretty much rocked.  We taxied into the center of Lima to visit Escuelab, a forward thinking art and technology center full of artists, nerds, and hipsters.  The kind of place I can believe in.  Kiko, one of the head techies, showed my a dirt bike turned robot with an XO for a brain and explained how such a place comes together and the intensity of his work there.  A tall rockin' video student named Clara and I shared out work and bad attempts at each other's languages.  These two OLPC veterans from Finland gave us a run down of the hang-ups we're bound for in our deployment, very much confirming our suspicions of the Ministry and worry over interacting with teachers.  It seems Peruvian schools are fraught with corruption, procrastination, and a somewhat deserved hierarchical distrust, at least from these Europeans' perception.  Dyhanna was very much distressed by one of the slides presenting Peruvian culture as deceitful.  The Finlander - his name's Sabastian, a swell guy - admitted his mistake.  To me deception is far more human than Peruvian, and shouldn't be any surprise.     





Friday was a new day.  We woke up before the sunrise for a long bus ride into the mountains surrounding Lima where a rural school is incorporating XOs into their curriculum.  The whole drive smelt of exhaust like I don't understand.  The Brit and I stayed awake and got to see some urban street life, the kind that reminds me of how strange America cities can be for not crumbling.  We're such space invaders here.

The mountain school, nested among lush peaks and a blue sky, was preparing for a dance competition and all day the same snare beat dominated the courtyard while the dancers worked out their steps.  From what I could tell the kids love the XOs so long as they can just play, and play isn't a trivial thing.  Dhyanna, Tiffany, and I followed some 4th graders around the vegetation and ruins around their school as they took pictures of local greenery on their laptops.  This one little booger, who kept following me around, asking for my thumb drive, which didn't have any use for him anyway, was the most adventurous, jumping down the hill to get closer to the cactus.  When we got inside we saw some problems.  The laptops were a major distraction, frustrating the teachers attempt to move the lesson forward.  The kids just want to play games, especially that little booger.  Some of my fellows later explained that this is just how schools work here.  Nothing much gets done, and such a beautiful place to do it.         









Now to the other end of the spectrum.  There's this magnet school outside Lima where the best students  come to prepare for college.  We were shown around by a sharp and enthused administrator in lavender.  I like the picture of her below, but it doesn't reflect the place.  The students live on campus, which features recreation, pool tables, technology, and even Korean style martial arts.  One of the classes asked us to come in so they could gander at the tall foreigners.  Adam was most noteworthy for his height and pronounced Britishness.  We sat down with a few dozen kids from the region of Ancash where our work awaits us.  They told stories of their music and parties and hopes and food; gato frito, aka fried cat, seriously, I can't wait.  These kids are so happy and grateful, even when they miss their home.  They want to lift their country up and they got the brass to do it.  But there's all that power outside threatening sameness and they're going to need a lot of help from somewhere.  Maybe providence.  I'm rooting for them anyway.  




More bus ride and then cock tails in the bosom of yuppiedom.  The main boss man of education technology in Peru had us over to his place, a suburban castle in a gated community with a dog kept behind the fence and a turtle left to wander.  Some hired help cooked up potatoes and cows heart - que rico - with these syrupy donuts for dinner.  I'm always grateful for a good meal, but the day had worn me thin and I was ready to get a buzz on a pass out.  And then there's all the poverty we've been watching out our passing windows and this luxurious backyard, while of course amicable, got me gritting my teeth.  Most of my fellows went out for dancing that night but I was not in the swing of it.  I think my characteristic social ineptitude is beginning to weird them out.  They are not the first.  They're bound to read this sooner or later, so let me say I'm sorry, it's my nature, and you ain't no dish of peaches and cream yourself.  Nothing but love.   

We've caught a lot of perspectives on our work.  It's going to be hard and everyone has an opinion on it.  And it's already Sunday as I'm writing this.  More soon.  




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Interns and El Ministerio

The last three days of training have been long.  For me that means attending to spanish, to which my mind refuses to assimilate as to a new liver.  But my fellow interns and I are learning much about the tool we're using, the XO, and how to use it in a classroom.  These instructive sessions have been broken up by lectures from the Peruvian Ministry of Education, a well dressed government organization bent on keeping us on task.  I'm always fuzzy on the details, but my fellows explain that the teachers we'll be working with are the bosses, "los maestros" indeed, and we should keep our ambitions in check.  This is most ironic as my fellows are mostly looking to enjoy themselves and don't intend to challenge anyone's control.  We relax into the well meaning bureaucracy and let it coddle us.  Our training is broken by leisurely and well catered coffee breaks served by a mousy older Peruvian senora, no doubt the protagonist of the scene, in a hallway at the top of the stairs of an industrial concrete building in downtown Lima, itself under a perennial blanket of clouds and smog which intermingle indistinctly.  My dystopian sci-fi imaginings run wild.


I'm falling in love with my interns, these lovable and worldly dorks.  They drink, though not like I know how to drink, and they commiserate like all good humans should.  There's Dhyana - a U.N refugee of Nicaragua and NY and a lovely roommate, Mark - tall and smirky, Steve - an experienced OLPC veteran and also smirky, Tiffany - a young New England woman at her best, Adam - an ironic brit (if you can believe that) and quite hugable, Cesar - stoic techie of Espana, Nick - a fellow Miamian and a lark, Becca - she's a sorority president and enjoys whisky (I'll be seeing a lot of this one as she'll be my partner in classroom work), Diego - a very much redhead of Uruguay, Andre - a young professional with more experience in the world than most old professionals, and Brian - our trustworthy and dapper diplomat of a supervisor.  We huddle around breakfast, coffee, or beers, and make chit chat and innuendoes.  We ride in taxis to training and make fun of the Ministry almost as much as it deserves.  You know.  I'm the quiet one again, and over enthusiastic, but that's my m.o.


Lima is as diverse a town as any its size - families, business folk, hippies, poor, rich - but as its next to the ocean its bound to attract a good deal more tourists than the average.  A sublime coastline filled with shining excuses for gringos to spend money.  The hostel we're in maintains a steady cliental of young, thirsty internationals.  Its in the center of the more lush section of the city.  Joyous, affluent noise surrounds.  I'm looking ahead to the field work and the small town drinking holes we're headed for.  And most of all the kids.

              
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First XO Art

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Estoy en Peru

Despues una dia total de aeroplanes estoy en Lima.  Que bonita!
My taxi driver, Oscar, from the airport was a darling.  In forgivingly slow spanish he explained that it never rains in Lima like it does in the rest of the country, and the general makeup of the town.  The hostel I'm at is humble but situated in a luxurious part of town.  Beaches and condos dappled by some worn out buildings and street vendors.
I found one other intern, Dhyana, had arrived before me.  She is a wonderful women, and we spent the morning gathering needed supplies, declaiming neo-liberalism, and celebrating the South Americas hopeful pink tide.  The coast line is over developed but retains its dreaminess.
Later today the other interns will arrive and we'll start training tomorrow.

Muchas embrujos para mi cabeza a asimilar.    
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